How to Make a Powerboat Aft Bench Cushion


Eric: This video is brought to you by Sailrite.
Visit Sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools, and instructions. In this video tutorial
we will show you how to reupholster a powerboats aft bench cushion. This bench cushion hinges
back to reveal storage below. The cushion has a vinyl cover which covers the foam then
the vinyl fabric is stapled to a backer board. To reupholster this cushion we will cut and
replace the old foam then a new cover will be made from marine quality vinyl seating
fabric from Sailrite. We will also cover the underside of the backer board to give it a
finished look. Also covered in this video is how to make the top plate using a few different
colors of vinyl, and one of the vinyl fabrics includes channeling fabric. Let’s get started
and show you every step required to make a cushion that staples to a backer board. Since
we are reupholstering from an old cushion, Brian will give us some pointers regarding
the process of disassembling it and evaluating the old seat’s condition as he goes. Okay this is the back seat out of the Regal
Powerboat. Basically what this does is there’s a set of four hinges along the backside of
it, and then it just hinges up. It’s attached to a board at the bottom and a little hook
there. But basically this is just where it’s pulled over and stapled. So right now we’re
just going to go ahead and start disassembling this. One thing to check as we go is, you
know, you can see these staples are pulling out fairly easy, which we will expect. But
there is still some grip there. If the staples just come out like nothing, I mean if we just
grab this and just rip it all out, then we might we need to be concerned about if the
wood is stable enough to hold the new staples. But these are pulling out pretty good.
Okay we pull this off we can see that the original foam, and from the last time that
this was done- not sure if it was from the manufacturer or the last redo- but they used
a plastic wrap very similar to our silk film. What this does is basically it lays underneath
the vinyl and it does just help to shed water. Now you can see that they wrapped the silk
film around, but the bottom of the wood is still open. What we’ll probably do is we’re
going to go ahead and do pretty much the same thing, but I think we’re going to add a
couple of vent holes in the bottom of this wood because we want to make sure that this
can breathe. On a boat, sometimes it’s not so much about keeping water out, but letting
it get out. Now as you can see, this foam here in the middle has a little bit of dirt
growth, what not. I’m going to assume that that’s from moisture. It still found its
way in, one way or another, and never got out. So those holes that we’re going to
put in the bottom of this board will help to get that moisture out.
We could possibly be reusing this; it’s not in bad shape, not really broken down.
But given the way we use this boat, we’re going to go ahead and go with the High Density
Polyurethane. We want to have a little bit firmer foam. People tend to sit on the edge
of it and stuff like that, stand on it. It’s just going to hold up better than this lower
density foam. It’s not uncommon to join pieces of foam. Looking at this particular
piece, I can’t tell whether they did this at the factory. It’s possible that maybe
originally it was just the 2” foam and they added this additional foam. Could just be
that that’s just the way they get it. It’s not at all uncommon if you want to have a
thicker foam. Let’s say for instance you want to have 5” high density foam. What
you’d do is you’d buy a 2” and a 3” sheet and glue them together just like this.
As you can see, we couldn’t even tell that this was pieces of foam until we opened it
up because if they’re glued together well and covered with a jacket, you’ll never
know the difference. Eric: Thanks Brian. Let’s turn it over to
Cindi now. We’re going to use some high density foam that we had left over from another
one of the projects for Brian’s boat. Okay, we’re going to piece this foam together
and try to be conservative about this last piece of foam that we have left. Eric: Sailrite stocks many types of foams.
This is a High Density Polyurethane Foam. Cindi is tracing around the foam adding between
a ¼”-1/2” to the size of the old foam. We want to plump up the cushion a little bit.
That’s why we’re adding that ¼” for us. A high density foam will not compress
as much as a low density foam. So for us, she’s tracing around only adding a ¼”
all around the sides. If I move it down and mark it again, then
I’ll know how much my straight piece needs to be also. Eric: To conserve, we will glue sections together
to make the length we need. This is a common practice in the upholstery market. Since we
have to glue sections together, she marks the old foam that she’s using as a template
so she knows what size the pieces need to be joined together need to be to equal the
appropriate length of our cushion. To make our size, we’ll be joining three pieces
together, as seen here. Here we’re using a foam cutter. Sailrite stocks a few to choose
from. You can also use an electric kitchen knife to cut your foam. Once the foam is cut
to size, we’ll stack it on top of each other for easy gluing. We’ll be using 3M General
Trim Adhesive. There’s a light, medium, and heavy setting
on this spray can. We usually use the light setting. It’s just a matter of twisting
the nozzle. Eric: Then simply spray the surface of the
foam that you want to adhere together. For good adhesion, be sure to coat the surfaces
very well. After spraying, allow it to sit for a few minutes as indicated on the instructions
on the can. That way the solvents will evaporate and the glue will become tacky. Then it is
the appropriate time to push the foam pieces together. Line up all edges as you push it
together. Then, if possible, under pressure so that edges are pushed up against each other,
allow the foam to sit for a few hours before use. The foam is ready. Now we need to pattern
the top plate. This is the old cover for the piece of foam
on the little bench that we are working on right now. I’m going to take the boxing
off and take the piping off and then use this to start my patterning for this piece. We’re
also going to put the design that we’ve used on the other seats on this piece so I
want this nice and flat so that I can decide where to put that design. When we cut the
new boxing, we’re going to cut it a little bit longer so we have a little bit more of
a pull. Eric: Once this has been separated, we’ll
be making a top plate that has three colors of vinyl fabric, which will be designed on
a curve. If your top plate is a single panel of fabric, you can skip the rest of this chapter
and the next two. This is the original pattern piece from our
very first cushion, and I’m going to tape it back together and use it one more time
on this cushion. Eric: This is the original cushion from whence
the pattern came. If you’d like to see that full video, check it out at Sailrite. Back
on the boat, our first cushion was patterned with Dura Skrim Pattern Material, and we drew
the design we wanted to follow for all the upholstery- a tan then blue then channeling
section of fabric for the top plate. We will use that pattern, not for the cut size of
the plate on this cushion, but to mimic the decorative design so it is consistent throughout
the boat’s upholstery. We’ve got this old pattern all taped together,
and you can see that it’s almost an exact replica of our first pattern that we made.
We have a little bit of extra here and a rounded corner down here. What I’m going to do is
cut my pieces apart, add the ½” seam in here, and then add an extra maybe 1 ½”
out here so that after my piece is all put together, then I can cut it to the correct
size. Eric: I know we just taped it together to
confirm that it would fit. Now we need to cut it apart. To make the pattern for the tan piece, I’m
going to turn it upside down. This is the right side of my vinyl and I want it to be
going the right direction. Eric: Meaning the pattern material is facing
down. So out here, I want to just add… Eric: Don’t worry, in a second we’ll explain
what she’s doing. That doesn’t have to be accurate. Eric: Before marking anything else, we need
to tape the pattern material in place so it doesn’t move. The pattern material’s facing
down and is on the underside of the vinyl fabric. This illustration should help. Inside
seams where it would be sewn to adjacent panels of color (shown in red) will have a ½”
added to each edge. Then outside edges should have between 1”-3” added for extra fabric
just in case it shrinks as its sewn. This line right here is where I want to add
the ½”, and all the other edges will get the 1 ½” added. Eric: This is the tan panel of fabric facing
upside down on the table. You’ll see she’s using the clear acrylic ruler to mark a ½”
from the pattern material, and she’s being sure that the line is always parallel to the
pattern material. Then she’ll cut it out along that line. This tan panel will be joined
to the blue panel. Here’s the blue panel already cut out. We didn’t show cutting
it out. Here’s the blue piece with the pattern turned
upside down and the right side of the vinyl on the table. I’ve added a ½” on these
two sides where we’re going to seam it together and extra out here. We’ll cut this down
after the piece is all seamed together. I need to transfer my marks so I know where
to put it all together. Eric: There were some match up marks that
were drawn on the Dura Skrim Pattern Material. She’s transferring those marks over to the
vinyl fabric on the underside so that when it comes time to sew it together, she can
match them up. Let’s rewind to when she was working with the pattern material so you’ll
understand what we’re talking about regarding the match up marks. Now I’m ready to cut this piece into three
pieces for the tan, the blue, and the channeling. I’m going to make some reference marks so
that when I sew this together I have some reference where the pieces should match. Eric: Moving ahead, now we have one more piece
to cut out. That is the channeling material. The pattern material is placed on the underside
of the channeling material. Then it’s taped in place. This is the channeling piece and I have it
with the right side on the table and my piece turned upside down. I’m going to do the
same process and add out here. Eric: This is where we’d need the extra
fabric between 1”-3”. And add here and along this line I’ll cut
the ½” because this is where it gets seamed to the other piece. Eric: Along the edge that has to be accurate
(the ½” edge) she’ll use the clear acrylic ruler again. We will sew the tan and blue
sections together using a French Seam, or what is sometimes called a Double Top Stitch.
On the underside of a French Seam, a reinforcing strip of fabric- for us, Grosgrain Polyester
Binding is used. This helps to provide the strength of that seam. We have our three pieces cut and marked. I’m
going to sew these two pieces together first- right sides together. I’m going to start
down at this end. You can see that our marks are very close so I’m going to use those
as my guideline as I go down and make sure that they stay close on all the edges. I want
this to be a fairly accurate ½” seam. So I’m going to use this magnetic seam guide
and attach it to the base of my machine using the ½” on the seam gauge. Then I’m ready
to stitch. Eric: This will be the first of three stitches.
This first stitch is a ½” from the raw edges of the fabric. She’ll be careful that
the edges are lined up perfectly as she sews along the length of the fabric assembly. And
she’ll also ensure that the match up marks are coming out directly on top of each other
as she sews this top plate together. If this assembly didn’t have shape, the match up
marks would not be important. But as you can see here, there is a rounded shape to these
two panels that are being sewn together. So for us, keeping the match up marks directly
on top of each other is important. This edge is okay. It should end up like this
will a little bit of extra on the tan. See technically it matches the pattern when you
turn it under like that. Eric: The first stitch is done. Now we’ll
talk about the reinforcement for the bottom side. We want to do a top stitch finish on either
side of this, which is sometimes called a French Seam. In order to do that, we need
to flatten out these two seams. I’m going to use this Grosgrain ribbon and attach the
Seamstick to it and then attach that to the seam to hold it in place while I’m stitching. Eric: This is a 1” Grosgrain Ribbon that’s
available from Sailrite. It will help strengthen this French Seam. Without it, the center stitch
is very weak. Basting it in place will help us to avoid from having to line it up as we
sew. So this will hold the seam in place while
I’m stitching, but it’ll also makes the seam stronger. Eric: It is important to press down the ½”
flanges from the first stitch flat as its being basted. We’ll be sewing closer to the center so
this doesn’t have to be exactly centered on the backside. Eric: Since the top stitch is approximately
¼” from the first stitch, the Grosgrain Ribbon does not need to be perfectly centered. For this stitching, I’m going to stitch
with the edge of the foot along my seam on either side. Eric: Notice the right side of the presser
foot is directly on top of that seam, or first stitch. For a more professional look, go slow
and be sure to guide the fabric so the foot is directly on top of that first stitch. I’m going to turn it around and do the same
thing on the tan side with the edge of the presser foot at the seam line. Eric: By flipping the panel and starting from
the opposite end, we’re still sewing with that first stitch right up against the right
side of the presser foot. This last top stitch completes the French Seam. Next we will sew
the vinyl channeling fabric to this assembly. We find that a top stitch does not look as
good in channeling fabric. So we will only place a top stitch in the blue vinyl fabric. We’re ready to sew the channeling piece
to the other two pieces. It goes on this blue edge right here; you can see the curve matches.
One thing that we want to be really careful of when we’re sewing on the channeling is
because of the foam in here, you might have a tendency to really stretch it and we don’t
want to do that. We want to keep it the cut size just like it is now. So we’re going
to use the Seamstick on this. Make sure that our marks are lined up while we’re putting
the Seamstick on. I’m also going to stitch with the channeling on the bottom. The underneath
teeth have a tendency to pull the bottom fabric quicker than the top fabric so that’ll help
keep this from stretching also. Eric: Just a few moments ago, Cindi called
batting inside the channeling foam. It’s actually polyester batting. When I put this on, I’m putting it as close
to the edge as possible. I have a ½” seam allowed here so I want to keep this within
that ½” seam. Eric: Our sewing seam allowance here will
be a ½”. So this ¼” width of Seamstick, or basting tape, will be well away from the
stitch that will be placed in this fabric assembly. That is very important. You would
not want this glue to come in contact with the stitch because when the assembly is turned
right side out that glue would be on the top side, which would not be good. It would collect
dirt and be ugly. So keep that ¼” basting tape well along the outer edge of the fabric
so it’s not sewn through accidentally. This ¼” basting tape will keep the panels in
the appropriate position, but more importantly for the channeling fabric, it will keep us
from accidentally stretching or shrinking the channeling fabric as it is sewn. Remember
earlier, Cindi talked about the channeling fabric having a batting inside of it, and
unfortunately, that batting allows the fabric to be easily stretched. We want it to be consistently
basted along this edge so that there is no stretch. Nice thing about the basting tape,
if you’re not happy, you can peel it up again and reapply it. As she’s basting this
you’ll notice three things: 1. She’s matching up the match up marks as she bastes. 2. She
is not stretching the channeling fabric. She’s trying to ensure that it goes down even all
along the length. 3. She’s matching up the raw edges of both the blue fabric and the
channeling fabric, including this curved area. This was a slightly time consuming procedure,
but as you can see, it came out perfectly. Both this end and the opposite end are exactly
where it should fall. When we lay this down after I’ve got it
pressed with the Seamstick, you can see that the channels look pretty consistent all the
way down. My marks here and my marks here are matching. Down here at the end, we have
that little angle like we had over here. On this end, my edges are even. I had added 1”
to all three of these pieces and they still all match up. So we’re going to stitch it. Eric: We’ll set up our magnetic guide so
that the seam allowance is again a ½”. Because these two panels are basted together,
we can do this rather quickly. However, we still recommend going nice and slow so that
your ½” seam allowance is consistent. To sew this cushion together, we’re using
the world’s best portable walking foot sewing machine, the Sailrite LS-1. It is a straight
stitch heavy duty sewing machine. Sailrite also carries the world famous LSZ-1, which
is a straight stitch and zigzag stitch walking foot sewing machine. Get yours today at www.Sailrite.com. I’m stitching and I’m only going to stitch
on the blue side of this. We did a test panel and we didn’t like it stitched over here.
So I’m going to stitch on the blue side with the edge of the presser foot as my guide
again. As you’re doing this, you want to make sure that your seam is spread open so
you don’t have any folds in the blue. Eric: Cindi is pulling those two panels apart
so that the first stitch is splayed nice and flat and keeping that presser foot- the right
side of the presser foot- right along that first stitch. She’s also sewing through
that ½” tail on the underside. We’ll be showing you that at the end to show you
exactly what we’re doing. But we want to be sure that we sew through the ½” tail
that the first stitch created. This row of stitching right here has covered,
or secured, both layers of the blue vinyl and the channeling. So that makes a really
nice strong seam. The Seamstick, you can’t see it right here, but the Seamstick is inside
here so you will never see it and it won’t get stuck on anything else.
I have all my pieces sewn together. We’re going to use the old piece to pattern this
with. Eric: If your top plate did not have sections
that were sewn together to make a colorful plate, then you skipped ahead to this chapter,
and I say welcome back! For those who sewed panels of fabric together to make a colorful
top plate, now is the time to cut the plate to the final size. We will do this with the
old plate that had the boxing removed. I’m just going to make marks all the way
around with my pencil with the seam pushed out and cut this new piece the same size as
the old piece was. Eric: If you do not have an old plate to replicate
the size, then we suggest that you cut your top plate the desired size of a finished cushion,
plus a ¼” all around all sides. The next step is to stitch the welting all
the way around all four sides of this. So I’m going to take it to the machine and
do that. Eric: We’ll start the piping on the back
side of the cushion about half way, or in the center, of the cushion. And you’ll notice
that she’s not sewing at the very end of the piping, but leaving a tail of at least
2”. That way when the piping is sewn on all around the perimeter, we can join it up
easily to the opposite end. This pre-fabricated piping has slits in the flange that allows
it to take turns. But it’s not uncommon to sometimes create deeper slits so it takes
the corner even better. This first stitch needs to be sewn next to the piping, but not
too close. If it’s sewn too close, it may show up when our boxing is joined to the piping.
It’s also a good idea to use a corresponding thread color so that if it does show up, it’s
not so noticeable. As you can see, we’re using white. We really should be using a blue
colored thread. Let’s skip ahead to where we need to join the piping. When I get back to where I started, I’m
going to open up this vinyl and trim just the cording off even with where I started.
Then I can tuck that inside and finish this off. Eric: When joining piping, if a woven fabric
was used as the piping cover, that fabric is folded diagonally and the opposite end
of the piping inserted inside and it’s sewn down. But with vinyl fabric, it’s too heavy
and should not be folded back. This is the old boxing piece and we want to
add a little bit at the bottom so we have a little more to pull around the board. This
one measures about 4 ½” so I think I’m going to cut mine about 6½”. Eric: Here you can see the vinyl fabric. It’s
been folded in half and she’s marking on the bottom side. This is the tan color vinyl
fabric. She’ll cut enough strips so it can go all the way around the perimeter of the
cushion. I’m not going to cut these to exact length
right now. I’ll do that as I’m sewing it on. That way I don’t have to figure out
an exact measurement for this. Since I have this a little bit longer than what I really
needed, I’m just going to sew one seam together and make it one big long strip and then I’ll
sew the rest of it together as I’m putting it on. Eric: Be sure to do some reversing at the
beginning and the end. This stitch is about a ½” away from the edge of the fabric. Since we don’t have one big long piece of
vinyl for the boxing, we’re going to have two seams in it. This edge over here is the
one that’ll be the most visible so I want to put this seam around to the backside of
the cushion. If I put that seam just 1” or so around to the backside, I want to kind
of check and see where the other seam will end up and make sure it’s not going to be
in the front somewhere where I don’t want it. So it looks like it’s going to end up
just around this corner, which will be a really good spot for it. I’m going to start stitching
where the seam falls about 1” back from this corner. I don’t want to lay it right
on the corner because it’ll be really hard to turn. So I’m going to put it a little
bit back from the corner and stitch all the way around this corner down here and then
I’ll stitch this and then I’ll seam the two pieces together. Eric: Earlier we sewed piping onto the plate.
The boxing will be sewn on right along the edge of that piping. This requires a cording,
or welting, foot. That cording tunnel is built into the standard foot of the Ultrafeed LS-1
and LSZ Sewing Machine. If you’re using a different sewing machine, you may need to
install a cording, or welting, foot. When sewing the boxing on and a corner is reached,
it is common to place a few slits at the corner so the boxing will take the curve more smoothly.
Always be sure these slits are not deeper than the sewn seam allowance. For us, our
seam allowance is approximately a ½”. I stopped back from this corner where my seam
is going to end up so that I have room to work with this piece. Just stitch this seam
together. When I sew the other side, I’ll stop back here and then match them up, stitch
this seam, and finish stitching this. Eric: Cindi will now flip the assembly around
and start sewing where she started sewing going the opposite direction. So basically
the top plate is now on top and the boxing is underneath. She creates a few slits at
this corner on the boxing, as we did at the last corner you saw. She starts sewing an
1” or 2” on top of the last stitches. Technically, you don’t have to do any reversing
if you do that. One some corners, it’s necessary to bury the needle, lift the presser foot,
rotate the assembly until you get the desired angle you want, lower the presser foot, and
then continue to sew. By burying the needle in the thickest part of the shaft, you’re
assured you will not get needle deflection and you don’t lose your stitch position.
When sewing the boxing onto a plate that has piping, always try to sew within the first
stitch that secured the piping, or at least on top of that stitch. If this is done, then
technically you will not see that first stitch that secured the piping to the plate when
the cushion is turned right side out. Nice thing about a cushion, if you sew too far
from the piping, you can always go back and sew closer. No one sees that stitch on the
inside of the cushion. Let’s skip ahead to where the boxing meets the other end. So I’m going to stop a little bit away from
where these two meet. I’m just going to walk that around the seam and hold it in place
with my fingers. Make a clip about ½” in; ½” in from this edge. I’m going to do
the same thing with this one. Walk it along the seam and clip it at the same spot where
I clipped the first one. Then those two clips get matched up. It’s okay that they’re
not the same here because we didn’t cut the boxing the exact length. So there’s
where I want to put my seam- a ½” in from this edge- and I want to end up at these clips. Eric: Here it’s necessary to do a little
bit of reversing at the beginning and end of our stitch. Now our boxing is exactly the
right length. Now I can finish sewing this seam. Eric: The excess at the joint could be cut
off. Just be sure to cut ½” away from the stitch that secures the ends of the boxing
together. Here she will sew over the excess and sew around that corner. Even professionals
like Cindi, when they reach a corner, will go slow. Sometimes they’ll even grab the
balance wheel and rotate it by hand on the corner. Here she’s coming to where she first
started stitching. She’ll sew a few inches over that and now we’re done.
In preparation of the backer board, we’ll drill a few holes to allow for breathability,
as discussed at the begging of this video. We’re going to use this Phifertex to make
this bottom side of this board, since it’s a bench that actually lifts up, look a little
bit nicer. I’m just going to lay it so it fits the piece. Eric: This fabric is called Phifertex. It
is a vinyl mesh. Another recommendation for the bottom side of cushions is called Cushion
Underlining Material. Those two brands are excellent for this. We’ve stapled it on
around the perimeter. Now I’m going to just trim this even with
the edge of the board because they’re going to cover it up with the vinyl and then pull
the vinyl down around. Eric: If the foam extends past the edges of
the backer board, you may not see the hard edges of board when the vinyl is pulled tight
over the board. However, in most cases, especially at corners- as shown here- the backer board
shows up and it’s not very nice looking. Alright, but I don’t like that. Eric: So we like to pad the edges of the board
with Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing, sometimes referred to as Sew Foam. We decided that this wood has kind of a sharp
edge on it so we’re going to lay the ¼” Sew Foam along the edges all the way around
the perimeter. Eric: All that’s required is to cut strips
of the Polyurethane Foam with Fabric Backing and staple them along the hard edges of the
backer board. This Polyurethane Foam has a fabric backing. It’s a spun bonded polyester
and we recommend that the foam be placed so it is facing out and the fabric backing is
facing, or up against, the hard edge of the board. Unfortunately we forgot to place the
silk film between the foam and the vinyl fabric in the next step. So later on, off filming,
we remove the vinyl fabric and place the silk film over the foam to help protect it from
water saturation. After the foam’s in place and before we install the vinyl cover, the
silk film should be wrapped around the foam. We forgot to do that. We are using a High
Density Foam for this cushion. A High Density Foam is typically used for heavy use areas
and will last many years, even if used regularly for several hours a day. A High Density Foam
usually has a density rating of 2.5 or higher. Compare that with a Low Density Foam. It has
a density rating of 2 or lower. Cindi is pulling the cover in place. Let’s talk about Low
Density Foam after she explains this. I’m going to start by tacking down this
side that is the wood frame part. I want to make sure I pull this seam on the backside
of the wood frame. It’ll look a lot nicer on the top if I do that. Eric: Back to our discussion on Low Density
Foam. A Low Density Foam is considered an occasional use foam. If used occasionally,
say a few hours a week, a Low Density Foam will last for years. But if used more heavily,
you may want to consider using a High Density Foam. Notice that Cindi is keeping the staples
very close to the edge of the vinyl cover material and she’s trying to keep them all
in a line. That’s because she will hide the staples using Hidem Gimp in the next chapter.
As the cover’s being stapled in place, always check to be sure the edge, or where the piping
is for our cushion, is exactly where you want it before you pull it and staple it in its
final resting position. Now on this edge, you want to push this corner
of the foam up into this seam so that it ends up over here and your seam is on the bottom
side, or the down side, of that. Eric: Because we are using a High Density
and also a firm foam with an IFD of 50lbs, it does not compress much, and Cindi has to
force the cover in place by pressing firmly on the foam. If an IFD of 35 were used, this
would not be nearly as difficult. If you’d like more in depth information about the density
of foam and the IFD of foam, be sure to check out Sailrite’s blog. Type in the search
“foam” or give us a call here at Sailrite. We’re using the very economical EZE TC-08
Long Nose Staple Gun here that’s available from Sailrite. For any marine application
or outdoor application, we highly recommend using Stainless Steel staples. Please do not
use the Galvanized staples unless it’s an indoor application. There are several ways
you can complete a corner. Here she’s going to create a few pleats and staple it in place.
Again, she is trying to keep the staples all in a row so that it can be covered in the
next step with Hidem Gimp in an effort to hide all the staples on the underside of this
hinged cushion. This is one way to finish a corner, and here on this corner, she’s
going to cut away some of the fabric. This is another way to create a tuck, or pleat,
at the corner. We’ll finish the corners at the opposite end. Here’s the cushion
complete. In the next chapter, we’ll hide the staples using Hidem Gimp. For a truly
professional look on the bottom side, try hiding the staples. Cindi’s just reupholstered
the cushion. Now she explains how to use the Hidem Gimp. Since this is a bench that opens up, we’re
going to finish up this bottom edge with the Hidem Gimp all the way around and cover up
these staples. Eric: When Cindi reupholstered the seat, she
tried to keep the staples that stapled the vinyl to the backer board all in a line so
that she could cover it easily with a Hidem Gimp in this step. I’ve got one staple here to secure it and
then I’m going to stretch it all the way to the other end to keep it straight while
I’m working with it. Eric: Inserting one staple at each end will
help to keep the Hidem Gimp straight. Then I can go back and staple the rest of
it down. Eric: Now that it’s nice and straight and
taut, we can run the nose of the stapler down the middle of the Hidem Gimp and secure a
staple approximately 1”-2” apart along its length. Here at this corner, we wanted
to take a gradual curve and Hidem Gimp will do that. However, as with any application,
one side has to stretch and one side has to shrink so there’ll be slight wrinkles there.
If the Hidem Gimp has to take a sharp turn like here at this corner where it turns almost
90 degrees, we would rather place a staple at the end, cut the Hidem Gimp, then cut the
second piece and butt it up next to it and staple it in place. It looks best that way.
The last staple should be very close to the end to help secure the end of that Hidem Gimp.
Here she’ll trim the secondary piece and place a staple very close to that end as well.
Two staples secure it there, then she’ll walk it down the length of the cushion and
apply a single staple there and then she’ll secure the middle section just as she did
earlier. If a butt joint is required, simply butt the two ends together and then place
a staple in the center with one leg in one side and one leg in the other. What was once
an ugly cushion is now beautiful- not only on the top side, but also the underside- thanks
to Hidem Gimp. Our hinged aft bench seat cushion for a powerboat is now complete. Coming up
next is a materials list and tools used to make this bench cushion, or bench seat. At
Sailrite, you’ll find many great colors and brands of marine seating vinyl fabrics.
Check them out at www.Sailrite.com. To see more project tutorials that are similar to
this one, click on a video here. In the next few months, you will see multiple new tutorial
videos for the 2016 project boat, which is a 1982 Regal Ambassador 245XL. Upcoming projects
include: installing carpet style headliner, foam backed headliner, v-berth cushions, cushions
with a backer board, reupholstering a folding helm seat, upholstered side panels, lounge
cushions, luxury woven vinyl flooring, and many more. Be sure to subscribe to the Sailrite
YouTube Channel and watch for them on the Sailrite website. I’m Eric Grant, and from
all of us here at Sailrite, thanks for watching.

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