3 Outboard Mistakes That Will Cost You | BoatUS


Hey again, folks! This is Lenny Rudow for BoatUS Magazine. You know, we boaters love out outboard engines,
right? But sometimes when we’re doing our best to
maintain them we accidentally do things that actually hurt them. So today, let’s talk about three maintenance
don’ts. Here’s maintenance don’t No. 1. At the end of the day, of course you’re going
to wash down your outboards, right? You want them to look nice, but whatever you
do, don’t scrub them with a scrub brush. These stiff bristles over time will wear away
that beautiful finish. Instead, make sure you use a soft microfiber
cloth like this or a dedicated wash mitt. This, folks, would be mistake No. 2. If you have an outboard engine with a dedicated
flushing port and you go to flush your motor, whatever you do, don’t turn the key and start
it. That flushing port is designed to be used
while the boat is not running. Now, if you have an earmuff setup, or your
lower unit is out of the water and you put earmuffs on it and run water that way, then,
yes, you do have to start it. But in this position, uh unh. And in fact, that engine should be tilted
all the way up with the propeller out of the water. Naturally, oil changes are a really important
maintenance chore, but unfortunately, this is also somewhere where people go amiss. The problem is, they put automotive oil in
there. Uh uhn. No way! Don’t do it. You have got to use dedicated outboard oil,
including on a four-stroke. Oil might look the same, but it’s not. Dedicated outboard oil actually has corrosion-inhibitors
added to it. On top of that, it’s much better in resisting
shear stress where mechanical action actually rips the molecules of the oil apart. So be sure you put the right oil in that outboard. You’ve got to remember, folks, your car runs
at 2,000, 2,500 RPMs; sometimes it goes up to 4,000. But your outboard, it’s running at 4,000,
4,500 all the time. Of course, the biggest maintenance mistake
you can possibly make is not maintaining your outboard in the first place. Follow your regularly scheduled maintenance
and don’t make these three maintenance mistakes, and your outboard will look great and run
great for years to come. Well, folks, we hope you’ll go to BoatUS.com,
check out the magazine, and please comment below and let us know if there are any additional
topics you would like us to address.

35 thoughts on “3 Outboard Mistakes That Will Cost You | BoatUS

  1. Per the Yamaha F150 manual recommended oil is “4-stroke motor oil, API SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL
    SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40” nowhere does it state that using a “Marine Grade” oil is recommended or required. This is just plain misleading, bad advice.

  2. That boat is a good boat, but though it is very convenient to put the outboard on the extreme outer side of the transom, this would increase the inertia of the boat about the centre line and it could roll unnecessarily. With a deep Vee, the props would emerge out of the water on turning. I do prefer outboards to be nearer the centre line for many reasons. One has to weigh convenience with efficiency I guess. To be efficient is not always the best way to take, I guess.

  3. Read you outboard manual Mr know it all. My Honda 4 stroke manual recommends running the engine during flushing to clean the water-pump and circulate clean water thoroughly throughout out the engine block. Keeping it at idle never racing the engine and monitor temperature. Had Force, Honda's, Mercury and Yamaha's all different procedures. If you can afford a big boat and twin outboards you can afford to take it to a dealer to undertake full maintenance and service

  4. I follow the dealer's recommendations where I bought my new outboard motor. Of course, it's a two stroke direct injection model which is a little different.

  5. Sorry Bud, but when it comes to maintenance and lubricants I am following my engine manufacturers owners manual not some generalized video.

  6. bullshit i would love to see this guy tell mobil that there oil is no good for a marine engine i also have a 135 honda 4 stroke run the balls off of it not even a tick in the motors

  7. BoatUS dude, you are ignorant and WRONG. The stresses on an automotive engine and an outboard engine is EXACTLY THE SAME. That is because they are the same motor period (except 2 strokes). The 7's V-8 uses the same block and many components from the corvette engine. In fact, boat engines may experience LESS stress than car motors because they don't have to deal with starting and stopping the mass of a vehicle. They only are subject to fluid mechanics (the prop) The same as an automatic transmission that does not have a lock up torque converter. Please quit being ignorant when you profess to be giving goof information.

  8. What about Amsoil? What about Synthetic Rotella Diesel oil? The HUEI system has incredible shearing on the oil and that Rosella T6 seems to be great with it.

  9. 1st Outboard motor mistake: Buying a Mercury. 2nd mistake: replacing your P.O.S. Mercury with a P.O.S Evinrude E-TEC.
    3rd mistake: Not buying a Honda or a Yamaha or a Suzuki. 4th mistake, expecting me to respond to your angry reply. I have 30 years in the business having worked world wide: South Seas, Asia, Europe, Latin America, Canada and Alaska so unless you have more experience with outboard motors than that, and have some tidbit that's going to blow my mind, please save your breath. Mercury's 1.3 star Consumer Affairs rating was earned. Just pull the cover on an Evinrude E-TEC and look at all of the clunky, poorly integrated, bolt-on garbage they came up with to make it work and then do the same on a Japanese engine. SEE THE DIFFERENCE?

  10. The worse mistake I made on my new OMC 250 hp, 2 cycle was to think that the automatic oil injector was actually injecting enough oil into the cylinders so that it wouldn't blow up 29 miles out in the Gulf two weeks after the warranty expired. Fooled me!

  11. ok I checked the service book on Suzuki and have a long answer –says 4 stroke motor oil
    • NMMA FC-W classification:
    SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM.
    or API classification:
    SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM.
    • Viscosity rating:
    NMMA FC-W 10W-40 or SAE 10W-40
    the word 4 stroke is to make sure you dont use it as 2stroke oil no need to buy special oil saying boat oil
    here is some more info clipped from web
    RAY: No, you don't need to be concerned, Dave. The letter combinations are performance ratings from the American Petroleum Institute, or API. When your van was manufactured, the top-of-the-line motor oil was rated SG, so that's what Ford called for.
    TOM: Well, since then, oils have continued to improve. They now last longer, lubricate better and hold more contaminants in suspension. And as oils have gotten better, they've been given higher designations. SH replaced SG in the top spot. Then came SI, SJ, SK and SL.
    RAY: And now the best-performing oil is SM.
    TOM: So, since your vehicle calls for SG or better, your engine can run on anything from SG through SM.
    RAY: By the way, oil designations that start with the letter S are for gasoline engines, and those that start with C are for diesel engines

  12. Get real Matt I've got a 150 mercury 2018 4 stroke beats all other outboard motors 1, bigger alternator 60 amp 2, 25 kg lighter 3,,, roller rockers (never to be adjusted) 4,, smart system start any way just do your homework and compare and read up on your motor of choice pays to know what your buying considering its 20,000 dollar investment Oh I got 5 year warranty too

  13. I think the number one maintenance issue is not using a professional mechanic. I would never own a boat that I could also use as a poling platform for example. There is no such thing as a "mechanically sound engine" nor a warranty that can't be voided. "It's better to be the driver than the Trucking Company" by way of example and in fact I rarely see boats period these days which is why I love boating..

  14. New topic suggestion…….How do you fog a four stroke, fuel injected outboard to get it ready for storage when you don't have a removable fuel line with like a portable type gas tank?

  15. Mercury motors specifically state in the manual to run the engine at idle during the flush operation using the flush port to open the cooling bypasses.

  16. I am confused too about the flush port. My Mercury 4 stroke has this port and I thought that to start the engine while not in the water that it is okay to run water through it….can someone clarify? I can understand using the port to just flush the engine after use, but what about just running water through it to start the engine periodically?

  17. Commenters have already raked this poor guy over the coals but I have something more. Don't use a deck brush to clean your outboard motor housing? Who in the world would ever do that anyway? I use the same soft bristle brush with soapy water that I use on the rest of the boat. It's all fiberglass. You don't need a microfiber cloth for gosh sake — clean it and wax it like you do the rest of your boat. But a deck brush? Please!

  18. Sorry but I don't completely agree with these 3 so called mistakes, I can tell you 3 that's way more important than not using a brush and flushing the engine ( without water running )

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